birds eye view of property to be developed into an orchard/garden area

90 days for first Tomatoes to show color change (May 5 planting, to Aug.3). Most harvested by Sept.1 (118 days).

Subscribers please message me with questions and seed requests.

NOTE: My comments based on growing experience are in italics.

• Aunt Ginny - beefsteak tomato of German origin. Large Tomatoes averaging 1lb. Vigorous, potato-leaf tomato plants suitable for single stem growing method. A pink beefsteak type with fruit averaging 1lb. Very productive with at least 6 to 8 extra large Tomatoes per plant. Adapts to a single stem growing method. Tomatoes are prone to being misshapen, with some stem end cracks and cat facing on blossom end.

  

  

• Cosmonaut Volkov - Volkov was a Russian explorer who perished in space. From Dnepropetrovsk in Ukraine, brought to America by the Seed Savers Exchange. 8–12 oz globes ripen at the beginning of August. Even in cold summers, it will produce dependably by mid-August. A orange/red juicy slicer with excellent Tomato flavor. Growth has a tendency to be weedy, and requires a firm pruning hand to keep this variety focused on producing fruit. Nice shape and size for slicing and fresh eating. Juicier than the other tomatoes on this list. Taste is excellent with a nice balance of tart and sweetness.

  

• Italian Heirloom - This all purpose Italian heirloom tomato is great for eating fresh, canning, or salsa. The fruit are easy to peel and have great taste. regular leaf foliage. Large fruit up to 1lb. Some of the later forming, smaller fruit is subject to blossom end rot. Strong producer of 5 to 6 large fruit per plant.

  

• Marianna’s Peace - Old, heirloom tomato that originated in Czechoslovakia.

  A pink beefsteak type. Nicely shaped fruit that are large and average 1lb. Production is lower than some, with an average of 4 to 6 extra large Tomatoes per plant. Adapts to a single stem growing method well. Good vertical growth and not weedy. Consistent and reliable producer. I have found that a few of the smaller, later forming fruit may have blossom end rot (that is in soil amended with bone meal and chicken manure with significant calcium content). some skin splits late in the season this year. They skin easy and are a premium processing Tomato.

  

• Pruden’s Purple - This early heirloom indeterminate beefsteak tomato that can reach up to 450g has meaty purple-pink flesh. It has a flattened top with smooth slightly ribbed skin that resists cracks and a unique potato leaf shape that sets it apart from other varieties. Very productive with large fruit. some skin splitting late in the season.

  

• Salvaterra’s Select - Salvaterra’s Select has been grown in Hazelton Pennsylvania since at least the 1950’s, and by Charles Salvaterra since the 1980’s. The Seedsavers exchange describes it as the “Winner of our 2017 Tomato Tasting - Paste/ Sauce division. The great meaty texture is paired with tangy, sweet flavor that make it an ideal sauce tomato”. These are generally smaller Tomatoes, in the 100 to 200g size. Vigorous growth with a ‘weeping’ style. Fruit is bright orange/red. Very good taste for fresh eating. Seeds are hard to come by in Canada.

  

  

  Soldacki - a polish heirloom brought from Krakow, Poland to Cleveland, Ohio around 1900. A massive dark pink beefsteak type fruit average 1 lb and up. Consistent size and shape. In my experience a single plant may produce 6 to 7 extra large Tomatoes. They adapt to a single stem growing method well. Good vertical growth and not weedy. Some marginal browning on leaves but does not appear to affect growth or fruit production. It has become my top pick for production. Some skin splits late in the season this year, but still managed to harvest.

  

  - In 2026 I plan on growing the following varieties for the first time and will update this document with observations throughout the year.

• Beefsteak: Azoychka, Maria Nagy’s Giant

• Cherry Tomatoes: Gardener’s Sweetheart, Amy’s Sugar Gem, Green Doctors

• Thanks for following The Forager.

Hot varieties of Peppers will change color as they ripen on the plant. Jalapeno’s usually turn red, and in some cases orange (orange spice). Red jalapeños tend to have a sweeter, slightly fruitier taste compared to green jalapeños. Additionally, they often have a more intense level of spiciness or heat.

In short season growing areas, Peppers may not have enough time to fully ripen and change color before the risk of frost returns. You may notice other changes in the appearance of Jalapeno’s that allow you to determine when they are ready to harvest. One of those changes is referred to as ‘Corking’

Corking is a term used to describe the appearance of thin, raised lines or cracks on the surface of a jalapeño pepper. These lines resemble the texture of cork, hence the term “corking.” Corking is a natural phenomenon that occurs as jalapeño peppers mature on the plant.

Corking is a great gauge as to when to harvest your jalapeño peppers. Once the peppers near maturation and the skin begins to show these raised lines, keep a close eye on them. Harvest the peppers anytime after corking appears, and before the first frost, for peak ripeness.

• An heirloom variety is a plant variety that has a history of being passed down within a family or community, similar to the generational sharing of heirloom jewelry or furniture. All heirloom variety are open-pollinated

• Open-pollination is when pollination occurs by insect, bird, wind, humans, or other natural mechanisms. Because there are no restrictions on the flow of pollen between individuals, open-pollinated plants are more genetically diverse. This can cause a greater amount of variation within plant populations, which allows plants to slowly adapt to local growing conditions and climate year-to-year.

• Hybridization is a controlled method of pollination in which the pollen of two different species or varieties is crossed by human intervention. Hybridization can occur naturally through random crosses, but commercially available hybridized seed, often labeled as F1, is deliberately created to breed a desired trait. The first generation of a hybridized plant cross also tends to grow better and produce higher yields than the parent varieties due to a phenomenon called ‘hybrid vigor’. However, any seed produced by F1 plants is genetically unstable and cannot be saved for use in following years. Not only will the plants not be true-to-type, but they will be considerably less vigorous. Gardeners who use hybrid plant varieties must purchase new seed every year. Hybrid seeds can be stabilized, becoming open-pollinated varieties, by growing, selecting, and saving the seed over many years.

If you grow heirloom or open pollinated Tomato varieties, it is possible to save seed for future plantings. I will outline the steps used in the fermentation method for your information:

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58 days since planting for Broccoli, and Cabbage

41 days since planting Cucumber plants (+ 32 days) .

Tomato plants range from about 32” to 38” in height. This is the first year I have left two to three stems growing on each plant. (usually I prune to one). Securing the plant to a single stake is challenging. All of the plants have flowers, with most having small Tomato fruits forming.

Cucumbers are 2 to 3 weeks slower than last year. A couple of factors are weather and variety planted. It has been been significantly cooler and wetter. Only monoecious heirloom varieties were planted this year. Last year I planted parthenocarpic varieties only (I was picking Cucumbers at this time last year).

Onions are coming along nicely. This year I am trying a Heirloom variety. The leaves are long and thin, but that may be partly due to the close proximity of large Tomato plants. I have been trimming any bent leaves to encourage plant growth.

Cabbage - This is my first year at growing Cabbage. Plant spacing was too close. The wingspan of these plants is at least 3 feet. There is some Broccoli and Kale planted in this bed as well. I saw a white cabbage butterfly in the garden bed shortly after planting but no insect issues so far. There is some dill planted as a companion.

Broccoli - I am trying a Heirloom variety this year. Coming along nicely.

This year I am growing Peppers in containers, as well as Cabbage, Broccoli and Brussel Sprouts. The cool wet weather in May and June slowed the Peppers down considerably. They are starting to grow now with a few small flowers forming.

The Cabbage plant is getting so large that it covers the entire pail making it difficult to water properly

Brussel Sprout

Broccoli

Ants can be controlled in the garden using sugar as a bait and mixing in a little borax. There are lots of articles and videos on making ant traps. I chose the following recipe and will include a link to the site which outlines how to make a trap for outdoor use.

• 1/2 cup (approx. 140ml) of sugar

• 2 teaspoons of borax

• 350ml (12 oz) of water

To make the ant bait, follow the steps below:

1. Pour 1/2 cup of sugar, 2 level teaspoons of borax and 350ml (12 ounces) of water into a glass jar or plastic bottle. Use a funnel if the bottle has a narrow mouth.

2. Put the lid on the jar or bottle and tighten it firmly.

3. Shake thoroughly until all the crystals are dissolved, this is the finished bait solution.

Two excellent articles on making ant bait and traps

https://deepgreenpermaculture.com/2020/10/23/how-to-make-borax-ant-bait-for-indoor-and-outdoor-use/

https://deepgreenpermaculture.com/2021/09/05/how-to-make-an-outdoor-ant-trap-to-protect-fruit-trees-from-aphid-and-scale-pests/#how-to-build-a-diy-outdoor-ant-trap-to-protect-the-garden-and-fruit-trees

I have one raised bed designated for Cruciferous vegetables this year (for the first time). Plant spacing is about 18” between plants and rows. Middle row of plants is staggered to minimize shading. Leaving a little space for some dill at both ends. Bed is measured and marked for planting.

The re-bar was used for a Cucumber trellis last year, and were pounded in so deep that I can’t get them out now.

May 30 update on cruciferous bed.

I planted Brussel Sprout, Pepper and Broccoli plants this morning, and will follow their advancement in later postings. Approximately 1/4 cup of pelleted Chicken poo, placed in planting hole (see pictures at end)

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The primary consideration during this process is to protect the seedlings from too much direct sun and strong winds. In northern growing areas there is also the challenge of wide temperature fluctuations, and risk of frost at night and snow. This is a rough guide that provides a 5 to 7 day transition period.

Day Before - prepare seedlings by ensuring they are watered in good

Day 1 - put out seedlings when temperature is at least 12’C,(that is usually after 10am for me) in a protected area, which is partially shaded and protected somewhat from the wind. Leave them out for 4 to 6 hours.

Day 2 - Place them in an area where they get full sun for 2 to 4 hours, and indirect sun for rest of time, for a total of 6 to 8 hours. My seedlings get morning shade until 11am. Then they get full sun for 4 hours before I take them in. Monitor the wind and protect them if it gets too strong. A little breeze is good.

Day 3 - water any seedlings that are getting dry and feel light when lifted. Put them out a couple of hours earlier if possible, otherwise keep conditions the same. Leave them out a couple of hours longer in the evening. Total time out may be 12 hours or so.

Day 4 - put them out as soon as you wake up. They may be exposed to full sun all day From hear on in, don’t protect them from mild to moderate breezes, but if the forecast is for strong winds keep them protected somewhat. water any that are drying out

Day 5 - same as day 4. If the forecast is for nighttime temperatures above 5’C, leave them out all night.

Day 6 - same as day 5. Fertilize with a liquid organic fertilizer (I use DirtnGrow organic seedling starter (is derived from digested vegetable meal, rock phosphate, citric acid, potassium hydroxide and kelp meal)

I usually let them dry out for at least one or two days prior to planting. Then the root ball is not too heavy and can be effectively removed from the pot.

Supplies

-11 2x4’s – 8 feet long

-3” deck screws

-wheels

Preparation

-18 sections of 2x4 cut into 42” lengths

-4 sections cut into 16” lengths

-4 sections cut into 26” lengths

-2 sections cut into 14” lengths

Instructions

Base

-set 4x42” boards on flat level surface to make a square

-predrill 2 holes per board. Attach boards together

-mark 2x4x42 boards (opposite sides) at 14” and 28”. That will be for the center of the cross members

-attach boards

First vertical boards (corner posts)

-place 4 2x4x16” boards at each corner

-predrill holes and then screw vertical boards into base at each corner. I used 4 x 3” deck screws for each board

Bucket base

-mark centers at 7”, 21” and 35”

-attach 3 2x4x42

-attach 4 2x4x42 to top of 16” vertical boards. For this section you will need someone to help you hold the 2x4’s in place or wood clamps.

Vertical Boards for Middle section

-attach 4 2x4x26” at 14 and 28” (or 14” from both ends of 2x4x42 on base)

-attach 2 2x4x42” at 16” for middle section

-attach 2 2x4x42” at 28” for middle section

-attach 1 2x4x42 for bucket base of middle section

Attach wheels

In Canada a set of 4, 6” swivel castor wheels is around $120 plus shipping. I will update this document once wheels are added.

This is the video I reference for my build

https://modernsurvivalblog.com/preps/safe-plastics-for-food-and-drink/

(1) 4x4x8

(5) 2x4x8

(3) Fence Boards 6” x 5/16” x 8’ long

Cut Wood

(4) 4x4 24 inches

(4) 2x4 8 feet

(4) 2x4 23 inches

(1) 2x4 13 inches

(12) fence boards 18 inches

(2) fence boards 16 inches

3 inch screws, 2 inch screws

Assembly

1. gather end pieces together (4 sections 4x4 x 24 inches and 4 sections of 2x4 23 inches)

2. mark 4x4 pieces 10 inches from the top and draw a straight line. This is where the top of the second row of 2x4 boards is attached at

3. put together one end piece at a time. Attach 2x4 sections to the 4x4 posts. One at the very top and one with the top of the 2x4 at 10 inches down from the top of the 4x4 post

4. set two end pieces on their sides

5. set 2x4’s which are 8’ long in. Attach one side at a time

6. set 13 inch 2x4 stabilizer bar at the halfway mark (approximately 48”) and attach

7. set 2 16” fence boards on ends of deck

8. set 12 18” fence boards on deck and space them approximately 1.5”, using a piece of 2x4 as a guide

9. attached fence boards to deck with 2” screws

Finished product

The references I used for building this table can be found at: